Life Cycle of the Flea
Control
Control methods include:
Eliminating fleas from your home is going to take some time if you are heavily infested.
Sanitation
It is very important to vacuum in the following manner:
Then, to keep out what you have sucked up, toss the bag, or they will continue to hatch out and come back out of your vacuum.
- good sanitation
- treatment of the environment
- treatment of the pet
Eliminating fleas from your home is going to take some time if you are heavily infested.
Sanitation
- Change pet bedding regularly
- Vacuum thoroughly
It is very important to vacuum in the following manner:
- Under the furniture
- cushions
- chairs
- beds
- along baseboards
Then, to keep out what you have sucked up, toss the bag, or they will continue to hatch out and come back out of your vacuum.
Treating Your Pets
Insecticide Free
Insect growth regulators, or IGRs
Insect growth regulators, or IGRs, are a safe preventative treatment for fleas. These products work by disrupting the normal development of flea eggs and larvae. When exposed to IGRs, adult fleas are unable to reproduce; eggs fail to hatch and larvae die before they complete their development. Because most IGRs kill only eggs and larvae, they do not eliminate adult fleas quickly. For this reason, they are usually mixed with a mild insecticide.
Insect growth regulators are available as sprays, spot-ons, pills or food additives. One product designed for internal use is called Program® (active ingredient: lufenuron). Program® can be given as a pill (for dogs), food additive (for cats), or injection (for cats). A similar product, Sentinel®, contains lufenuron plus a heartworm preventative. These products are available only through veterinarians. They are very effective, particularly for indoor pets.
Two other insect growth regulators for topical use are methoprene and pyriproxyfen. Methoprene is sold under several trade names including Precor® and vIGRen®. Methoprene and pyriproxyfen are available at pet stores as dips, pet sprays, spot-ons and flea collars. Control requires 4 to 6 weeks.
For severe flea problems, an IGR treatment may not be quick enough. Use a product that kills adult fleas, such as imidacloprid (Advantage™) or fipronil (Frontline™). Both products have low toxicity to mammals and pose little risk to pets or people. Advantage™ and Frontline™ provide 1- and 3-month protection from fleas, respectively. Frontline™ also kills ticks for up to 1 month after application. Both Advantage™ and Frontline™ are available from veterinarians as spray and spot-on treatments.
Spot-on treatments (pesticides applied to one or more spots on the animal’s back) control adult fleas effectively. Natural oils on the fur help transfer the pesticide to all parts of the pet’s body. With all products, read and follow label directions carefully. Products designed for use on adult dogs should not be used on puppies or cats, unless specified on the label.
Botanical (plant-based) insecticides kill adult and larval fleas and are relatively low in toxicity. Botanical insecticides include pyrethrum (or pyrethrins) and citrus oil extracts (limonene and linalool). Use botanical insecticides with care. Though usually safe when applied according to label directions, some pets (especially certain cat breeds) are sensitive to botanicals–especially citrus oil products.
It is sometimes claimed that garlic, Brewer’s yeast, cedar bedding and various herbal sachets control fleas, but there is little scientific evidence to support such claims. Volatile oils in fresh cedar chips are toxic to fleas, but the effect lasts a very short time. Tests have shown that Brewer’s yeast does not protect pets from fleas.
Treating homes. The pet’s living areas should be treated at the same time that the pet is treated. This kills immature and newly
Tapeworms and fleasCat fleas sometimes carry an intestinal parasite called dog tapeworm, Diphylidium caninum. The dog tapeworm has an interesting life cycle. It lives in the intestinal tracts of dogs, cats and sometimes humans. These long, flattened worms consist of up to 200 body segments (called proglottids) and may reach a length of 12 inches (30 cm). When mature, these segments detach from the main body of the tapeworm and wriggle from the anus of an infected animal. Fresh tapeworm segments are opaque white or pinkish white, flat, and somewhat rectangular. When newly emerged, they move with a stretching-out and shrinking-back motion. When dry, the segments are yellow or off-white, less than 1/16th inch long, rice-shaped sacs. Each sac contains tapeworm eggs. Tapeworm egg sacs are frequently seen attached to hairs around the pet’s anus, in feces, or in the bedding of infested pets. Flea larvae feed on tapeworm egg sacs. Once inside the flea, the tapeworm eggs hatch and the flea becomes infested. Infested adult fleas carry a stage of the tapeworm that can mature and multiply if the flea is swallowed by a pet. During grooming, pets often ingest such tapeworm-infected fleas. Once released into the pet’s digestive tract, tapeworms mature into adult forms. On rare occasions, small children may ingest fleas and become infested in this way. If you see proglottids in your pet’s feces or bedding, you should have your pet treated. Veterinarians can prescribe pills or injections to safely treat for tapeworms in pets.
emerging fleas and prevents re-infestation of the pet.
Several low-toxicity treatments are available for indoor use. Citrus sprays containing limonene or linalool can be applied to rugs, carpeting and pet bedding. These products kill fleas on contact, but evaporate quickly and leave little residual protection against emerging fleas.
Boron-based products, such as disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, can be used on indoor carpeting and have little skin (dermal) toxicity. Borates kill immature fleas by contaminating their food supply. Because adult fleas feed on fresh blood only, boron insecticides do not control this life stage. Borate treatments are best applied as shampoos to avoid problems with dustiness, abrasion to carpets, and contamination of furniture or food preparation surfaces.
The insect growth regulators methoprene and pyriproxyfen can be used indoors. Although methoprene is unstable in sunlight, it is an effective indoor treatment. Pyriproxyfen sprays, available to pest control professionals under the trade names Archer™ and Nylar™, can be applied both indoors and outdoors. Pyriproxyfen controls both immature and adult fleas. Indoors, treat pet loafing and sleeping areas, and in and under nearby furniture. Outdoors, treat only flea breeding sites such as bedding areas, the ground under decks and shrubbery, and wherever pets spend a lot of time. Well maintained lawns in sunny sites are unlikely to harbor many fleas. Suitable consumer products for indoor and outdoor treatments are listed in Table 1.
Follow-up. Because flea pupae are hard to kill with insecticides, an additional follow-up treatment is usually needed 7 to 10 days after the first application. When using short-residual insecticides such as pyrethrins, two or three follow-up sprays at 5- to 10-day intervals may be required.
Biological and Mechanical ControlsFire ants and other predatory insects eat flea larvae but they do not control fleas completely. Several kinds of predatory nematodes (a type of microscopic worm) are sold for outdoor flea control, but their effectiveness has not been well tested. Studies suggest that nematodes work best in sandy soils. Irrigate with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water before and after application. This prolongs nematode survival and helps them move through the soil in search of flea larvae.
Several kinds of flea traps are available from pest control companies and pet stores. The most effective designs use a special green light that blinks occasionally to simulate the shadow of a passing host. Most attract fleas to a sticky card, where they are trapped. Place traps near pet beds and loafing areas for best control. By themselves, traps are unlikely to solve most flea problems; however, they can be a useful part of an integrated flea control program for your home.
Don’t wait until fleas get out of hand. Begin your flea control program early for best results. Start a frequent and thorough sanitation program, regularly inspect your pet for fleas, carefully follow the label directions of the insecticide product you choose, and dispose of all pesticides safely. These steps will help you reduce the need for extra pesticide treatments.
The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service is implied.
Insecticide Free
- Use a flea comb and comb the pet
- Bathe the pet, soap kills fleas, (though last year things were so bad, only Dawn dish detergent was effective at our place.)
- Comb most around face, neck and are in front of tail, dipping the flea comb in soapy water or alcohol to kill the fleas you comb off the pet.
Insect growth regulators, or IGRs
- disrupt the normal development of flea eggs and larvae
- sterilizes the adult fleas
- will not kill adult fleas without some additional method
- Available as sprays, spot-ons pills or food additives.
- For many years, we used Program pills with our dog quite effectively. (lufenuron)
Insect growth regulators, or IGRs, are a safe preventative treatment for fleas. These products work by disrupting the normal development of flea eggs and larvae. When exposed to IGRs, adult fleas are unable to reproduce; eggs fail to hatch and larvae die before they complete their development. Because most IGRs kill only eggs and larvae, they do not eliminate adult fleas quickly. For this reason, they are usually mixed with a mild insecticide.
Insect growth regulators are available as sprays, spot-ons, pills or food additives. One product designed for internal use is called Program® (active ingredient: lufenuron). Program® can be given as a pill (for dogs), food additive (for cats), or injection (for cats). A similar product, Sentinel®, contains lufenuron plus a heartworm preventative. These products are available only through veterinarians. They are very effective, particularly for indoor pets.
Two other insect growth regulators for topical use are methoprene and pyriproxyfen. Methoprene is sold under several trade names including Precor® and vIGRen®. Methoprene and pyriproxyfen are available at pet stores as dips, pet sprays, spot-ons and flea collars. Control requires 4 to 6 weeks.
For severe flea problems, an IGR treatment may not be quick enough. Use a product that kills adult fleas, such as imidacloprid (Advantage™) or fipronil (Frontline™). Both products have low toxicity to mammals and pose little risk to pets or people. Advantage™ and Frontline™ provide 1- and 3-month protection from fleas, respectively. Frontline™ also kills ticks for up to 1 month after application. Both Advantage™ and Frontline™ are available from veterinarians as spray and spot-on treatments.
Spot-on treatments (pesticides applied to one or more spots on the animal’s back) control adult fleas effectively. Natural oils on the fur help transfer the pesticide to all parts of the pet’s body. With all products, read and follow label directions carefully. Products designed for use on adult dogs should not be used on puppies or cats, unless specified on the label.
Botanical (plant-based) insecticides kill adult and larval fleas and are relatively low in toxicity. Botanical insecticides include pyrethrum (or pyrethrins) and citrus oil extracts (limonene and linalool). Use botanical insecticides with care. Though usually safe when applied according to label directions, some pets (especially certain cat breeds) are sensitive to botanicals–especially citrus oil products.
It is sometimes claimed that garlic, Brewer’s yeast, cedar bedding and various herbal sachets control fleas, but there is little scientific evidence to support such claims. Volatile oils in fresh cedar chips are toxic to fleas, but the effect lasts a very short time. Tests have shown that Brewer’s yeast does not protect pets from fleas.
Treating homes. The pet’s living areas should be treated at the same time that the pet is treated. This kills immature and newly
Tapeworms and fleasCat fleas sometimes carry an intestinal parasite called dog tapeworm, Diphylidium caninum. The dog tapeworm has an interesting life cycle. It lives in the intestinal tracts of dogs, cats and sometimes humans. These long, flattened worms consist of up to 200 body segments (called proglottids) and may reach a length of 12 inches (30 cm). When mature, these segments detach from the main body of the tapeworm and wriggle from the anus of an infected animal. Fresh tapeworm segments are opaque white or pinkish white, flat, and somewhat rectangular. When newly emerged, they move with a stretching-out and shrinking-back motion. When dry, the segments are yellow or off-white, less than 1/16th inch long, rice-shaped sacs. Each sac contains tapeworm eggs. Tapeworm egg sacs are frequently seen attached to hairs around the pet’s anus, in feces, or in the bedding of infested pets. Flea larvae feed on tapeworm egg sacs. Once inside the flea, the tapeworm eggs hatch and the flea becomes infested. Infested adult fleas carry a stage of the tapeworm that can mature and multiply if the flea is swallowed by a pet. During grooming, pets often ingest such tapeworm-infected fleas. Once released into the pet’s digestive tract, tapeworms mature into adult forms. On rare occasions, small children may ingest fleas and become infested in this way. If you see proglottids in your pet’s feces or bedding, you should have your pet treated. Veterinarians can prescribe pills or injections to safely treat for tapeworms in pets.
emerging fleas and prevents re-infestation of the pet.
Several low-toxicity treatments are available for indoor use. Citrus sprays containing limonene or linalool can be applied to rugs, carpeting and pet bedding. These products kill fleas on contact, but evaporate quickly and leave little residual protection against emerging fleas.
Boron-based products, such as disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, can be used on indoor carpeting and have little skin (dermal) toxicity. Borates kill immature fleas by contaminating their food supply. Because adult fleas feed on fresh blood only, boron insecticides do not control this life stage. Borate treatments are best applied as shampoos to avoid problems with dustiness, abrasion to carpets, and contamination of furniture or food preparation surfaces.
The insect growth regulators methoprene and pyriproxyfen can be used indoors. Although methoprene is unstable in sunlight, it is an effective indoor treatment. Pyriproxyfen sprays, available to pest control professionals under the trade names Archer™ and Nylar™, can be applied both indoors and outdoors. Pyriproxyfen controls both immature and adult fleas. Indoors, treat pet loafing and sleeping areas, and in and under nearby furniture. Outdoors, treat only flea breeding sites such as bedding areas, the ground under decks and shrubbery, and wherever pets spend a lot of time. Well maintained lawns in sunny sites are unlikely to harbor many fleas. Suitable consumer products for indoor and outdoor treatments are listed in Table 1.
Follow-up. Because flea pupae are hard to kill with insecticides, an additional follow-up treatment is usually needed 7 to 10 days after the first application. When using short-residual insecticides such as pyrethrins, two or three follow-up sprays at 5- to 10-day intervals may be required.
Biological and Mechanical ControlsFire ants and other predatory insects eat flea larvae but they do not control fleas completely. Several kinds of predatory nematodes (a type of microscopic worm) are sold for outdoor flea control, but their effectiveness has not been well tested. Studies suggest that nematodes work best in sandy soils. Irrigate with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of water before and after application. This prolongs nematode survival and helps them move through the soil in search of flea larvae.
Several kinds of flea traps are available from pest control companies and pet stores. The most effective designs use a special green light that blinks occasionally to simulate the shadow of a passing host. Most attract fleas to a sticky card, where they are trapped. Place traps near pet beds and loafing areas for best control. By themselves, traps are unlikely to solve most flea problems; however, they can be a useful part of an integrated flea control program for your home.
Don’t wait until fleas get out of hand. Begin your flea control program early for best results. Start a frequent and thorough sanitation program, regularly inspect your pet for fleas, carefully follow the label directions of the insecticide product you choose, and dispose of all pesticides safely. These steps will help you reduce the need for extra pesticide treatments.
The information given herein is for educational purposes only. Reference to trade names is made with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service is implied.
